Cooking With Herbs – Emelie Tolley

Acting on the tenet you should enjoy what you’re doing and make money, too, Kirk took a job as a garden curator and research assistant at Colonial Williams- burg, in Virginia. But he found himself drawn back to Savan- nah, his hometown, where with partner Frank Warthan, he is now proprietor of a delightful garden shop although he still plans and installs gardens. “The only time I have to sit down and relax is over dinner,” Kirk says.

“I learned to cook from my mama, a good no-nonsense cook. But you know, in the South, people have a tendency to butcher vegetables. I had to find out for myself they’re healthier and taste better steamed than boiled to death.” Mint is grown in most Southern gardens, and Kirk’s is no exception.

He still enjoys the minted cucumber sandwiches his mother has been serving ever since he can remember, and a few leaves from an unusual chocolate mint growing in the shop’s garden give his juleps the faintest hint of chocolate. One of Kirk’s favorite garden plants is Southernwood. “It’s pretty from an architectural viewpoint and for color,” he notes, “and it’s a good edging plant and very hardy.

We keep some in the dog’s bed to keep the fleas away,” he adds, “and we tuck some in the closets to discourage moths.” Finding ways to use it in the kitchen is harder. An adaptation of a cake from a nine- teenth-century herbal filled with “lots of fabulous desserts with interesting tastes” is one of the best culinary uses he’s discovered for this aromatic herb. me Rambling roses grow on an old farm shed in the Georgia countryside.

And to Emelie, who did such a great job writing Herbs and Cooking with Herbs. I have the easy job! And to all the people who found herbs before we did and made our work a lot of fun. CM. As Also by Emelie Tolley and Chris Mead Herbs: Gardens, Decorations, and Recipes Gifts from the Herb Garden The Herbal Pantry A Potpourri of Pansies Gardening with Herbs JU : alee 1995 Photographs on page 9 © David Alossi Recipes on pages 203 to 204 from Marcella’s Italian Kitchen.

Used by permission of Random House. Recipes on pages 206 to 209, copyright © 1986 by Guiliano Bugialli. All rights reserved. Used by permission. Text copyright © 1989 by Emelie Tolley Photographs copyright © 1989 by Chris Mead All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Published by Clarkson N. Potter, Inc., 201 East 50th Street, New York, New York 10022.

Member of the Crown Publishing Group. Random House, Inc. New York, Toronto, London, Sydney, Auckland CLARKSON N. POTTER, POTTER, and colophon are trademarks of Clarkson N. Potter, Inc. Manufactured in Hong Kong Library of Congress Catalog-in-Publication Data Tolley, Emelie Cooking with Herbs Includes index 1. Cookery (Herbs) 2. Cookery, American. 3. Cookery, International. I Mead, Chris. II Title. TX819.H4T65 1988 641.657 88-19562 ISBN 0-517-88380-5 10987654321 First Paperback Edition We would like to thank all the people who have shared their time, expertise, and recipes with us: Those who are represented on the following pages as well as those who do not appear because space ran out.

Our gratitude goes, too, to those who helped make our task easier: Jacqueline Horscher-Thomas; Doreen, Fred, and Jackie Mead; Myra Oram; Albert Morris, Keith Varty, and Alan Cleaver; Nina Flinn and Hector Lombardi; Joe Ruggiero; Albert Hadley; Ronaldo Ferri; Anne Blackwell; Steven Aronsky; Sandra Kreinik; Sharon Donovan; Helen Jones; Lyndsey Veccios; Cobweb Antiques. And our deep apprecia- tion to Nancy Butkus for her sensitivity to our concept of Cooking with Herbs and her creativity in transforming our pictures and text into a beautiful book.

Last, a very special thank-you to all those at Clarkson N. Potter, especially Pam Krauss, Nancy Novogrod, Gael Towey, Carol Southern, Missy Schueneman, and Jonathan Fox, who have helped, supported, and encouraged us along the way. Overleaf: Sandi Wickersham Resnick’s mixed herb bouquet.

This is a short excerpt from the opening of “” by Unknown, quoted for review and introduction purposes. All rights belong to the copyright holders.

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