Kaiseki The Exquisite Cuisine Of Kyotos Kikunoi Restaurant – Yoshihiro Murata

I personally think this month is a good time to enjoy all phases of the moon, not just its full stage. In Kyoto, we pay homage to the moon by making dumplings shaped like a small taro and covered in sweet red-bean paste. Unfortu- nately from Kikunoi we cannot actually see the moon, so I hang a scroll painting of it.

In this month’s hassun I want to evoke a feeling of watching the moon from a boat on a lake. The moon is reflected on the surface of the water upon which autumn leaves are floating, When you look to the shore, you can see stalks of susuki pampas grass waving silently in the moonlight. 4839 704 4] Tai Kikka-zushi Chrysanthemum shaped sushi made of sushi rice flecked with chrysanthemum flowers and yuzu, topped with vinegared sea bream g Hamo Hachiman-maki Simmered gobo root wrapped in hamo Ebi Matsukaze Baked loaf made of shrimp, fish paste and egg, sprinkled with white poppy seeds kes Yakime Kuri Chakin Pureed chestnuts shaped into a ball using a moist towel, baked in the oven until golden brown Icho Imo Sweet potato punched into ginkgo leaf shapes and deep-fried Garasa Ebi Laochu-zuke no Sudachi-gama/Masu no Ko Grass shrimp are small translucent shrimp.

I shell them live and soak in Shaoxing rice wine, then fill a sudachi cup with them and top with salted trout roe. 13 ey eK & SRA Shio Kofuki Ginnan Ginkgo nuts toasted with sake and salt Fs ##Q Matsuba Somen Fans of thin noodles, deep-fried to resemble pine needle sprays recipes p.174 Ty? Kabura Furofuki October is the month when small white turnips known as ko- kabura are coming into season.

In Kyoto these turnips are tra- ditionally paired with a yuzu-flavored miso paste—delicious, but not very creative cooking. Walnuts are quite autumnal, so I’ve combined some with sesame seeds and miso to make a sauce that gives the root vegetables a little glamor. A sprin- kling of chopped walnuts adds a crunchy counterpoint to the soft texture of the miso and turnips.

Distributed in the United States by Kodan- sha America Ine., and in the United King- dom and continental Europe by Kodansha Europe Ltd. Published by Kodansha International, Led. 17-14 Orewa I-chome, Bunkyo-ku, Tokve 112—8652, and Kodansha America. Inc. No part of this publication may be repro- duced in any form or by any means without permission in writing from the publisher. Copyright © 2006 Yoshihiro Murata.

Photographs © 2006 Masashi Kuma. English Translation © 2006 Kodansha Inter national Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Printed in Japan. First Edition, 2006 11 1009080706 10987654321 Murata, Yos! Karsekt > the exquisite cuisine of Kyete’s > 2. > st Shoe Kikunot restaurant = – photographs by M by Ferran Adria and Neburuki Matsuhisa. I. Title. 641.9982–de22 2006013461 wwwkodansha-intlcon vee z E : <= Y 4 E ne y s = P ere CONTENTS FOREWORD oo 6 AUT bag ee a - INTRODUCTION 23 2 — =.

8 Peer ie ee By a AS _-KAISEKI COURSES alo pe gy SUMMER – 2 = WINTER Co – 2 FOREWORD LT] When chef Yoshihiro Murata asked me to write a few words for this beautiful book, I saw it as the perfect opportunity to express my admiration for him in particular, and for Japanese cuisine in general. I have never made a secret of the fact that I believe Asian cuisine is one of the key innovative influences on Western haute cuisine. And amongst Asian cuisines, it is that of Japan that appeals to me most deeply—for its aesthetics, its philosophy, and its conceptual proximity to some of the dishes we offer from our own kitchen here at El Bulli.

Also striking to me, as a Western chef, is the blend of traditional and modern elements that goes into the preparation of Japanese food. I have always held that while in the West we cook with the senses, the heart, and logic, the Japanese add to this an extra component, one that is deeply anchored in their way of working and thinking: the soul.

Nowhere is this better exemplified than by the work Yoshihiro Murata is carrying out at his magnifi- cent restaurant, Kikunoi. I have many wonderful memories of my visits to Japan, but there are few places that have touched me on such a deep, spiritual level as Kyoto.

This is a short excerpt from the opening of “” by Unknown, quoted for review and introduction purposes. All rights belong to the copyright holders.

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